Pagosa Springs, CO to Albuquereque, NM 28th June (Day 16)

Headed back down into New Mexico to get to Albuquerque for a night out having a mexican meal. We went via Santa Fe then on through Madrid on the way to Sandia mountain before heading into Albuquerque to the Nativo Hotel where rooms were booked. That was the plan.

Southern Colorado merged into northern New Mexico. The road went on...



and turned...



Got bored and started playing with the camera




Barnie



Onwards until we reached the Rio Grande







We followed the Rio Grande for a while as we headed south towards Madrid.



Before we reached Madrid, it became obvious that the rain was going to get us so we stopped and put on waterproofs and got soaked. We stopped in Madri dfor a coffee and a warm before presing on for Albuquerque. On reflection, riding motorbikes to the top of Sandia mountain in a thunderstorm did not seem the brightest plan so we carried on to Albuquerque.

As we go into into Albuquerque the skies really opened and we took shelter under a bridge where we joined two cars and were later joined by three Harleys. The hailstones were huge.






By the time we arived like drowned rats at the hotel I was struggling with a combination of tiredness, sore ankle, slippery road conditions and heavy traffic. I dipped out of the meal and crashed out early. Boring but sensible and necessary.

Plan for tomorrow is Lubbock Texas but I need a new back tyre first in the morning.

Salida, CO to Pagosa Springs, CO June 27th (Day 15)

Arrived Pagosa Springs 4:15ish - more later.

We left Salida and headed west into San Isabel National Forest on R50 to go over the Monarch Pass (11,312') and down into Gunnison for breakfast at the Wcafe. Nice food with something on the menu which did not include eggs or pancake which was great for me! Gunnison seemed a prosperous town
and county and it made a great start to the day.





We were heading for Pagosa Springs today. From Gunnison we took the R149 south going over Slumgullion Pass (11361') and Spring Creek Pass (10,901') to reach Creede where we stopped for a break.




We continued south down the R149 (Silver Thread Byway) until we had nearly reached South Fork and the R160 west to Pagosa Springs.



We pulled over on a lay-by next to a river





because Aidan had a problem with the final drive on his 1150. It was leaking fluids and it was clear that the bearing was on it's last legs. This was something that would take some sortng out - even getting a spare might take some time. Then Colin, hero of the day, pipes up with "I've got a spare in my pannier". Looks of disbelief all round. To get the old bearing out it was clear we would need a workshop and tools, heat etc. We limped on into South Fork where we waited





while some enquiries at the gas station by Chris yielded the information that there was a gentlemen in his 90s who had a good workshop who lived locally who might be able to help. This turned out to be the case. You really do meet some fantastic people on a trip like this.

Aidan and Colin with Chris set off to the workshop to start taking off the drive. After a lot of profanity, elbow grease and heat they completed the job and joined us at Pagosa Springs.

The final part of the day's route along R160 takes you over Wolf Creek Pass (10,857') before dropping into Pagosa Springs.



We stayed at the Pinewood Inn and had a great evening in Kip's Cantina










- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Location:Pagosa Springs

Paonia, CO to Salida, CO 26th June (Day 14)

Proper Colorado the way I imagined today, the R133 road we followed out of Paonia over the Mclure Pass to Carbondale was a fantastic flowing road to ride. At Carbondale we stopped for breakfast





After breakfast it was onwards to Aspen for a look round. We parked up and overflowed out of the designated motorcycle parking area but that seemed OK



and had a walk around the Saturday open air market. Nothing was cheap - a guy on a KTM 990 who stopped to ask where we were from said it was known as the most expensive market in the US. Exaggeration? Possibly but not much when Gucci rubs shoulders with Dior on the high street!



From Aspen we continued up the R82 to the Independence Pass which crosses the continental divide at 12,095 feet. Again, an absolutely cracking road to ride.

All was going fine and we got to the top and did the obligatory pics.





Then we had the problem - Barnie's battery bit the dust. The top of a 12000 foot pass is not a good place for that to happen!!



Anyway to cut a long story short we managed to get everyone down with a bit of a wait at a lovely spot called Twin Lakes and were able to crack on for Salida where we are tonight.






A foot note to finish on - my foot is better each day and gives me no probs riding although I am hobbling a bit - three weeks before FB7s rugby so hopefully OK for that.

Another note: The video camera I have seems to have a special important scenery sensor and had consistently let me down when trying to record the best runs on the bike. From now on I will not use it. I will try and get an alternative system in Albuquerque but otherwise it is stills only from here.

Telluride, CO to Paonia, CO 25th June (Day 13)

From Telluride we set out to head for Grand Junction along the R145 and R141 roads. This route came as a complete surprise to me as I had been expecting Colorado to be all John Denver and Ski Resorts. Nothing could be further from the truth. Whilst those places exist (Telluride, Aspen etc) much of the lower altitude areas are similar to the arid Arizona and Utah areas we had already passed through. Highway 141 in particular follows a canyon of the Dolores river through red sandstone rocks.

We stopped on 141 at the 141 diner for drinks


Then onwards towards Grand Mesa





The ride over Grand Mesa was a treat. We climbed to 10,800 feet and then dropped down the other side of the mesa.

Ended up in a small place outside Paonia - family run motel, very helpful and friendly even to running in to town for us to collect the pizzas we ordered! Thanks!

Oh yes, BTW loads more pics and stuff over here ...
Chris - Tour Leader's Blog is here

Chinle, AZ to Telluride, CO 24th June (Day 12)

Foot a bit better this morning but did not want any distractions so did not try to do any video footage today.

We left Chinle and made our way across the arid corner of Arizona



Our first port of call was Four Corners where the four states of Arizona, New Mexico, Utah and Colorado meet. Unfortunately when we got there it was closed for construction.



We rode up to Mesa Verde for lunchtime and had a very pleasant bite at a little cafe, the Millwood Junction Restaurant in Mancos, CO



The decider for where we stopped was the fact that Aidan's bike's stand needed some work and Paul (aka Garfield) had a rear shock absorber which had totally expired. Chris knew a man who could help - Basin Motorcycle Works at Mesa Verde (BMW). As things turned out, the solution to Paul's problem was a replacement unit which would need shipping in. They would meet us in a couple of day's time.

We parted company with Aidan and Paul at Mesa Verde and some of us pressed on for Telluride following the planned longer but prettier route along the so called Million Dollar Highway (R550). Great views but you'll have to take my word - no pics.

Chris also needed some running repairs on his bike and after diagnosis agreed the solution would be to ship a replacement item to the Albuquerque BMW dealer where we would be in a few days time.

We arrived in Telluride after Chris, Martin and Lloyd who took the shorter route. It is a very nice place and well worth a visit.










The roads to and from it were great. Shame I couldn't get more pics.

Greasewood Springs, AZ to Chinle, AZ 23rd June (Day 11)

I was awake pretty early this morning at around 6am and got out in time to see the end of the sunrise.










After breakfast, we picked up the bikes and then it was a short hop up the road to Chinle of about 60 miles where the intention was to go on a tour of the Canyon de Chelley (Chelly? Chelle?). A lot of the guys did that but the ankle was not up to an hours hike each way down and back up the canyon wall.

Instead, I have updated the blog as far as poss. Some more pics have been posted and if you back-track through the blog, there are some more links. Picture upload speed still slow but more will follow.

Tomorrow we are off for four days in Colorado followed by a return south for a night in Albuquerque, New Mexico. Lots to look forward to.

Mexican Hat, Utah to Greasewood Springs, Arizona June 22nd (Day 10)

We left Mexican Hat in the morning heading into Arizona.

I slept through some excitement late on the evening before when a local sheriff's deputy who had been following a car with people drinking alcohol (open cans in a car is an offense). The deputy dealt with the matter but as the kids drove past our motel they dumped their crate of beer out of the car, even though that was not the offense. The deputy came back and got talking to some of the other lads who were still up. They had a long chat and a guided tour of the police cruiser and the gear. Very impressive arsenal of equipment. Check out Paul's blog for more. The best bit was the deputy gave Paul a San Juan County Sheriff's Department shoulder patch. Missed it :-(

The run to Greasewood Springs was long but not challenging for me. There were two possible routes to follow. At the point they split there was a shopping centre where I had hoped to get some more camcorder tapes but the centre was shut due to power failure so I opted for the easy alternative which passed a second shopping centre at Tuba City. Mission accomplished. Three of the lads took the other route which included two long off tarmac stretches.

We met again at Keanes Canyon on the Hopi reservation and pressed on to Greasewood after an ice cream.

Greasewood Springs, Arizona is on the Navajo Nation territory where Chris (Bilco) had friends who had arranged to cook us a traditional Navajo meal. After the meal we were to move the bikes a few miles and finish the day by sleeping over at an isolated house which had been built back in the thirties by the grandfather of Terry, Chris's friend. Terry's grandparents had passed on and the property was disused but was a perfect setting for an outdoor evening on the reservation, with a big bonfire, marsh mallows and good conversation about the Navajo Nation and the history of the people.

Oh dear - pride comes before a fall - literally! I was so pleased to have made it round Monument Valley the previous day without a problem and then tonight we had to get down about three miles of sandy track to get to the house. Suffice to say that eventually the front wheel dug into the sand and the bike was down. Anyway - bike was OK but I managed to twist my ankle. So...

Dear Charlie,

Mate, regarding the 2011 Dakar Rally, sorry but I'm gonna have to pull out. Decided me and sand really don't get on well together when on two wheels (etc)

Anyway, a bit sore last night but concentrated on resting (easy), keeping it elevated, icing it and compressing it and was able to ride the next morning. Despite the discomfort I found it a fascinating evening and I would love to know more about the Navajo and to have spent longer learning more about their traditions.

Thanks to all the great Navajo people we met for making us feel so welcome. I felt very fortunate to have been able to experience it.

No more off-road for Neil this holiday. I love it, but got to play safe.

Monument Valley (round trip) 21st June (Day 9)

Took the panniers off the bike this morning to see if there was anything I could do to straighten the frame but nothing that can be done quickly an deasily with the available tools.

I left them off for the rest of the day as we went 22 mile up the road to Monument Valley. This is one of the most iconic sights of the American West having featured in many John Ford/John Wayne westerns from Stagecoach onwards. All I will say is visit it.









Some of us took our bikes onto the Valley Drive an unpaved 17 mile loop through the valley itself which I enjoyed so much I did some of it twice (23 miles for me altogether). It was basic gravel and rock off roading but with a few treacherous sandy patches. To my delight I managed to get all the way round without any problems even on the sandy bits. Point the bike, pray and a squirt of power and let the bike do the work!

Absolutely amazing day but expect to pay premium prices in the visitor centre. The cars doing the Valley Drive were mainly 4x4 and hire cars. No RVs (Recreational Vehicles) as it was too rough. There are tours run on modifed 4x4 pick ups but you will pay $65 per person. Much better on a bike :-D

Oh and the camera worked properly today!!

Hatch Utah to Mexican Hat Utah, 20th June (Day 8)

Up early, suited and booted, tanks filled and ready to roll for Sergeant Bilco! Long ride today to get to Mexican Hat where we would be spending the next two nights.

The first port of call today was Bryce Canyon National Park in the morning. Bilco and Kev nearly got tickets for speeding off the Park Rangers but they settled for a stern telling off and a docs check - "Yes Ma'am, No Ma'am, 35 mph in the park Ma'am".

The scenery between Hatch and Mexican Hat changed spectacularly in a series of waves from an almost European green feel back to deep desert as we approached Mexican Hat.

Many, many miles (well, over 300) and we stopped somewhere forgettable for lunch which consisted of equally forgettable tacos. There were a couple of high points in the day's ride. Aidan spotted a deer off the side of the road which I saw - my first in America. We also had to stop for a herd of cattle being moved across the road on open range by a rancher and his two cattle dogs.

There was also a double low point for me in the day, just at the end. We were descending a dirt road to Mexican Hat which was very spectacular and I was behind Colin when he stalled and I could not get off his line fast enough on the dirt and clipped a corner of my right pannier on his left (10 more mm and I would have been clear). My bike went over though his didn't and my pannier mounting frame has been distorted. Still works but looks lopsided. The second low point was I discovered the battery for the helmet cam was off and I had not taped any of the day's ride :-( :-( :-(

Oh well - dented pride and dented panniers but no one hurt so that was good. Monument Valley tomorrow! :-)

Las Vegas to Hatch, Utah 19th June (Day 7)

I am writing this from a terminal in a motel in Mexican Hat, Utah near Monument Valley as I cannot (again) get a proper wifi connection to upload pictures.

So, Day 7 and we left Vegas - a throbbing mass of humanity and headed out of Nevada for Utah and the sleepy settlement of Hatch. Truly from one extreme to the other. The temperature remained at a steady 38-40 degrees Centigrade and it is indicative of our acclimatisation that it did not deel particularly uncomfortable.

Our route from Vegas took us to the Hoover Dam and then round Lake Meade into the Moapa Valley where we stopped for lunch and an ice cream at the appropriately named Inside Scoop in Overton.

Onwards after refuelling the riders and we headed for Zion Valley National Park which is quite simple stunning. I am suure to run out of superlatives befor ethis trip is over.

We passed through three different states today, starting in Nevada, passing briefly into Arizona on the other side of the Hoover Dam and then back through Nevada to Utah.

The temperature dropped noticeably as we climbed into Utah. Next stop will be Mexican Hat.

Lone Pine to Las Vegas 18th June (Day 6)

Well - today was the big one as far as I was concerned. Death Valley had to be crossed to reach Las Vegas With stories of temperatures in the fourties centigrade I awoke at 5 for our early start to get across the worse of it before it heated up too much.

Death Valley is approached by dropping from 3,000 feet plus to 282 below sea at the lowest point we reached on the valley floor, Badwater. To conserve moisture and prevent overheating the advice I had been given was to close all the cooling vents on the bike gear and wear a cold damp rag around my neck. Beer, caffeine etc were not recommended so we went out late the night before for a few beers and a steak. No negative effects. I did however have my camelback filled with water laced with some salt additives to replace the elements the body loses when perspiring which seemed to work very well.

The temperature in Death Valley was kind to us, topping out at about 36-38 degrees Centigrade. We made it from Lone Pine to Furnace Creek before stopping to refresh which went well. Then it was onwards to The Famous Crow Cafe at Shoshone were we stopped for lunch after leaving the National Park before leaving California and entering Nevada and pressing on up the interstate to Las Vegas.

We had been expecting Death Valley to be the hottest place today but were surprised to find that when we reached Vegas at about 3.30pm the temperature had climbed to 40 degrees Centigrade, the hottest we have seen so far on the trip.

We are booked into the New York New York which is part of the Tropicana. Tonight we will take a look round Vegas before pressing on to Zion Valley about two and a half hours down the interstate.

Lee Vining to Lone Pine 17th June (Day 5)

This morning, we ticked two more boxes on the must do while in America list. We headed out for a place called Bodie - named after a miner who found gold there but then came to an unfortunate end although the town boomed through the 1880s and 1890s. Now it is a ghost town preserved by the Californian state and is reached by road which is tarmacked except for the last 4 or 5 miles. Perfect for a BMW!

Ghost town - tick in box.

Off road - tick in box.

We spent the morning riding out there, looking around and riding back to Lee Vining before pressing on in the afternoon to reach Lone Pine where we are staying tonight. The ride to Lone Pine was across the high sierra, a bleak landscape with temperatures back up in the thirties, but still snow on the mountains on either side.

We arrived at Lone Pine and found somewhere to stay then went to find somewhere for a drink then on to eat.



Right, I have written enough to block out the last few days riding and I will try and get some pics up too but we are riding through Death Valley tomorrow and even with a 6am start we will be hitting temperatures in the 40s. So the priorities are food and an early night.

Oakhurst to Lee Vining

Today was the big one so far. We left Oakhurst early and headed into Yosemite National Park. I have to say I was simply speechless. I have never seen anything like the views from our first stop at Glacier Point.





The drop to the valley floor and the views of the Half Dome and El Cap were stunning with waterfalls plunging down into the valley.

We then descended into the valley itself to Yosemite Village which is unsurprisingly set up to cater for the tourists in monumental hordes.



It did that efficiently and we ate there before pressing on to exit the park via the Tioga Pass at over 10,000 feet above sea level. Again, stunning views with snow still on the ground in large amounts





A long sweeping road descended through sweeping curves in a radically different, much drier environment down to Lee Vining on the shores of Mono Lake where we were to stop for the night.

Three Rivers to Oakhurst 15th June (Day 3)

Today we left Three Rivers and pressed on up into the Sierra Nevada mountains to visit the Sequoia National Park. After climbing to a viewpoint high in the hills where we could see a lot of the park and surrounding mountains



and the neighbouring Kings Canyon, we continued into the park to see the largest single living organism on the planet (they claim). It is a Sequoia named the General Sherman. The tree is not the tallest but it 33metres in circumference and tall enough to make it the biggest tree by volume.



We stopped at the visitor's centre for lunch which was very slow but good enough when we eventually go it.

After the Sequoia National Park which was an impressive place we descended into Kings Canyon to the river bridge



with what I think must be the best bar none bike road I have come across to date. Absolutely amazing sweeping and tight curves as we descended to the river then back again doing it the other way.

We were as high as 7000 feet and as low as 2000 feet through the afternoon

We then had to crack on as it was getting late and we had a lot of miles to cover to get to Oakhurst where we were stopping for the night. We arrived late.